However, the current studies of art style mainly focus on image analogy, image preprocessing, and feature extraction. Research on the style transfer of art works is conducive to spreading art more widely.
IntroductionĪrt works are products of human culture, embodying the spirit of humanism and reflecting the cultural characteristics of the times. At the same time, with the increase of the number of iterations, the training time of the improved model is close to that of the original model, but the image of the improved model training is larger, which shows that it has more advantages. Compared with the traditional CycleGAN model, the proposed model performs better in GAN train and GAN test, with a higher average pass rate, which is an increase of nearly 10%. The experiment shows that the improved CycleGAN model is efficient and feasible for style transfer. An improved art style transfer method of the CycleGAN model is proposed. The obvious texture characteristics of Chinese ink painting are selected as the input of the Cycle Generative Adversarial Network (CycleGAN) model builder, and the relativistic evaluator is employed to improve the model loss function and the adversarial loss function. But fluffier materials like static grass or regular flocking grass would definitely want to go on after the dip.In view of the unsatisfactory effect and major limitations of the style transfer of art works, this paper takes Chinese ink painting for the research subject. If you've got rocks or something with good texture and appropriate color, you could dip the whole thing. That won't look as good as doing proper layering on the black and edge highlights all-around, but it will be fine for tabletop.Īs for dipping bases, that can sometimes make sense. Then pick out other details (eyes, sensors, etc.) with just a color or two (or a drybrush, or a color and a wash). I'd just do a wash of the recesses with Nuln Oil or Agrax Earthshade or whatever GW's green wash is called and then repaint the green avoiding the recesses. But it doesn't look like there's all that much green there. I'm not familiar with these models and the pic is not that clear, but it looks like you've got black pads and green limbs? Doing black well is hard, and probably more time investment than you want. Doing it the right way with a wash and relayer of the base color came out tremendously better and was only slightly more time-consuming than the time I spent trying the get the dip to work just right. I just went through essentially this same process with Ultramarines - did a few test figs and got some amount blotchiness and muddied colors no matter how careful I was. With a better dipping color (like red or orange), it might be worth the trouble and still save you time overall, but I don't think the results here will be good enough to be worth it. It's possible to minimize that, but you'll be spending time on it and the whole point of dipping is to be fast. Quickshade with power armor is generally kind of bad, because the big, smooth surfaces will collect up pools of shade and get blotchy. However, I agree that Quickshade is not the best choice for these models in these colors, even though I'm a dipping fan in general. It probably wouldn't be dark enough to be visible either. The Strong Tone is brownish and will make the green armor look funny - it would be reasonable for ork skin, but not so much for power armor. If you were going to Quickshade those, you'd definitely want Dark Tone (a black tint). I watched a Girl-Painting tutorial on Youtube that says dont quickshade your bases, but thats difficult for me because I can't dip my models without the bases and I paint the bases before I put the models on them I found hope in The Army Painter 3 step process and I've started off painting up a squad of Anvil Industries Black ops and I'm not sure which quickshade I should use, I know there are some very talented people which practiced eye who could point me to which one and I'm asking that question now.Īnother question I have is about baseing and quickshade, do I paint the bases then quickshade then flock\what-not? I could just not paint the models and leave them grey but I belive any person I play against deserves the respect of playing with\against a painted army and thats the thought thats kept me from really enjoying the game of warhammer 40k as much as I enjoy the fluff. I REALLY HATE painting, to me its the largest hurdle for people to get into the hobby and a hurdle I struggle with when I consider buying miniatures. Hey guys I would like to start out by saying I really freggn hate painting.
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